Wondering how to spot a fake Hermes scarf? We asked the experts!
By Chere Di Boscio
We’ve all become a bit spoiled these days.
Digital technology has allowed for the mass-printing of intricate designs that were once the reserve of highly trained artisans. Prints that used to be silk screened by hand are now printed by computers, and only the well trained eye can tell the difference. Though this is certainly a more democratic approach to apparel, it seems to be a bit of a shame to be losing the art of silk screening.
Luckily, some companies, such as Hermès, insist on maintaining the ancient technique for their scarves. But there are more reasons why a Hermès scarf is special.
The Beauty of the Hermès Scarf
For example, each silk square boasts hand finished edges, double ply Mulberry silk and dozens of colours applied by hand.
After an artwork has been designed, pencils, paintbrushes, pens, sponges and even toothbrushes are all used by master artisans to break the picture down into its composite colours, then reproducing each layer on its own acetate sheet.
It can take up to 1700 hours to complete one gorgeous scarf. That’s why such scarves are so expensive. But the precision drawn, vividly colourful result is worth it. Even worn vintage pieces are still very much in demand, and no wonder! Each could be considered a reproduced piece of art much in the same way etchings or photographs are. And as with fine art, the value of some prints only increases with age.
Sadly, because of their value, there is another quality Hermès scarves share with art: there are many Hermès fakes to watch out for. Here’s what you need to know.
How to Spot a Counterfeit Hermès Scarf
According to Paris-based vintage Chanel and Hermès expert Catherine B, there are 10 key signs of a fake Hermes scarf. They are:
1. Language
One of the first tips for how to spot a fake Hermès scarf is found on the tag. A fabric tag written in any other language besides French and English will indicate a fake. All Hermès scarves are made in France, but often carry a bilingual tag. English is the only other language you may see.
2. Hems
A real, original Hermès scarf will have a hand rolled hem, rolling towards the front (the more vibrant side of the print). The thread for the hem should perfectly match the main colour of the scarf. Counterfeits may use contrasting or odd-coloured thread that doesn’t match the design, making the hem stand out in an unattractive way.
One hallmark of Hermès craftsmanship is the hand-rolled and hand-stitched edges, known as “roulotté”. Authentic scarves have edges that are rolled toward the front (the printed side) and stitched with fine, even handwork. The stitches may not be perfectly uniform—that’s a good sign. Machine-sewn or flat-stitched edges are red flags for fakes.
3. Signatures (maybe)
Whilst some vintage scarves may not carry it, most (but not all) scarves today (and from the 80s onwards) will have the artist’s signature somewhere in the print.
Look closely—most authentic scarves will include the designer’s signature somewhere within the print (e.g., “Philippe Ledoux”, “Annie Faivre”, etc.). The signature should be seamlessly integrated into the design, not awkwardly placed.
If a scarf lacks a signature or has one that looks printed over the design rather than part of it, well…just be cautious.
4. Size
Another way to spot a fake Hermès scarf is related to its size. There are three sizes of Hermes scarves:
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90×90 cm (35×35 inches) – the classic carré
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70×70 cm
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45×45 cm (pocket square)
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140×140 cm (larger shawls)
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Twilly (a long, narrow scarf)
That is it! Anything outside this range is likely to be fake.
If the measurements are off, particularly if it’s smaller or the shape isn’t square, it may be a fake. The Twilly is the exception.
Unsure? Take a tape measure to it—counterfeiters often get dimensions wrong.
5. Jacquard
One of the easiest way to spot an authentic Hermes scarf is the incorporation of Jacquard silk. This is a material that’s slightly 3D compared to the rest of the scarf. This is difficult to replicate; no fake scarf will use Jacquard silk.
6. Copyright
There should be a copyright ©HERMES mark with the “C” in a circle with the word Hermès–NOT “Hermes-Paris’. Again the second ‘e’ must have a French accent mark. The copyright is usually located on the upper left hand corner of the scarf.
However, this is an exception to this rule.
Hermès launched its first scarf in 1937, Jeu des Omnibus et Dames Blanches. The original issue wasn’t signed, and wasn’t copyrighted. Nor did it have a care tag. All that changed over the years. Today, the scarves come with a care tag as well as a copyright mark, as mentioned above. This is typically printed, not stitched, and the typography should be clean and balanced. Counterfeit versions often have inconsistencies in font spacing, alignment, or printing quality.
Compare the logo to known authentic versions to check for discrepancies. Misspellings (like “HERMES PARIS” without the accent) are immediate deal-breakers.
7. Fabric
Authentic Hermès scarves are made from the highest quality silk. Specifically a silk twill known as “serge”. The texture is rich, smooth, and slightly weighty with a subtle sheen. Counterfeit scarves often use polyester or lower-grade silk that feels lighter, shinier, or overly slippery.
Test it by holding it up to the light—the weave on a real scarf is tight and uniform. Also, gently run your fingers over the fabric. It should feel luxurious, not flimsy or synthetic.
8. Look at the Care Tag
Newer Hermès scarves (post-2000s) come with a sewn-in fabric care tag, usually in French and English. It should say “Made in France” and include material content, typically “100% Silk”.
Older scarves may have no tag or a paper swing tag instead. If the tag is plastic, laminated, or has poorly translated instructions, it’s likely fake. Also, be wary of “Made in China” labels—Hermès scarves are made exclusively in France.
9. Note the Smell
It might sound odd, but a strong chemical or plastic smell can indicate a counterfeit. Authentic Hermès scarves generally have little to no scent, maybe a trace of perfume or dry cleaning from previous wear. A new scarf should smell clean and fresh, not artificial.
How to Buy an Authentic Vintage Hermès Scarf
It should be clear by now that a Hermès scarf isn’t just a piece of fabric—it’s a legacy of luxury, craftsmanship, and timeless fashion.
Since the first “Carré” (square scarf) was introduced in 1937, Hermès scarves have become collector’s items and treasured accessories. However, with their growing popularity, however, comes a thriving counterfeit market.
Knowing how to spot a fake Hermès scarf is essential for any buyer, whether you’re investing in your first piece or adding to a collection.
Knowing where to buy authentic vintage Hermès scarves can assure you that you’re not buying a fake.
There are a few options.
- 1stDibs also offers a wide selection of not only Hermès scarves, but also shawls, bags and much more. Prices start at around $250, too. Bargain!
- Rebag is a world-leading expert in vintage fashion of all kinds. Each piece for sale is first authenticated by experts before being placed on their site.
- Finally, the Real Real is a respected online site that checks for the authenticity of all their designer items. Here, you’ll find stunning scarves for around half their retail value.
Spotting a fake Hermès scarf requires a sharp eye and some knowledge of the brand’s high standards. Once you know what to look for—the hand-rolled edges, artist signature, premium silk, and accurate design details—you’ll feel more confident in distinguishing genuine luxury from a convincing copy.
When in doubt, consult an expert authenticator or seek out third-party authentication services before making a purchase. Hermès scarves are investments, and with the right precautions, you can build a collection that’s both beautiful and authentically timeless.
Do you have any further tips on how to spot a fake Hermès scarf? Let us know in the comments, below!
